I feel your pain. The last time I stepped foot into a guitar shop and bought a guitar was 1976. Nope I still don't have the guitar. And if I did it would not be much. The spacers on the tuners broke into pieces among other issues.
But I have bought two guitars since and I didn't step foot into a shop to buy either one. Big mistake some would say and most likely be right. But I have never paid over $200 for either of them. So no huge loss. I imagine if I was paying like $5000 for a custom job I would be down at the factory watching the build process.
But I recommand gathering info on guitars of interest. What are they made of. Laminate or solid wood top, what type of wood etc. Listen to someone on youtube play them if you can find a video of such. But keep in mind, your mileage will vary. My first guitar is a yahama c40, a budget classical. My second is a Jasmine, a budget steel string.
The first I bought off the web on brand alone, and it was uneventful.
The second I bought off the web after watching some youtube videos. And the radius neck and killer strings through me for a loop actually playing it. I went with extra light strings but they have not worked so well. Might have to go with just light strings.
So if you are going into the shops...have a list of guitars of interest based on web research and videos. But be ready to go in a different direction if it does not respond in your hands the way it did for others. Personally I would take a electronic tuner, and start with tuning, then check the notes at the 12th fret for inienuation. Then I would like others have said play some open chords. Then try a few bar chords. But note action might come into play there. Heck I think I would take my 1/64" fine resolution 6" inch ruler and check the action at the 12th fret and the action at the nut. Just to get a idea of how much setup you might want on the guitar in question.
Well, having said all that, is all about personal preference. Me the next guitar I try might be a sunlite 2000F solid spruce top, mahogany back and sides...price...about $150...might be junk...but I want to test it at some point.
Buying a guitar.....?
I know what you are saying in terms of being self-conscious in the guitar shop. Particularly when you pick up a really nice guitar. You feel like everyone in the store is waiting to hear if your skill justifies the expense. But I do agree with what others have said, in the end it's your money and you don't have to justify yourself to anyone. It was also interesting what you said about compromise, buying the guitar you know you can really afford but REALLY wanting another that you can't. That's life eh! My problem is that my logic goes "well...over the life of the guitar what's another couple hundred bucks?" Which is OK logic but you need to draw the line somewhere. Particularly when you have to go home and explain to "she who must be obeyed".
One thing I would NEVER do again and that's buy a guitar on reputation of the brand without playing it. I bought a Maton from ebay once and it was really disappointing for me, had it only a few short months and sold it for a bit of a loss. No matter what the amount you are spending it's your hard-earned dollars and you need to be entirely satisfied.
Good luck with the search. Buying a new guitar is SO enjoyable I can understand why some players build huge collections.
One thing I would NEVER do again and that's buy a guitar on reputation of the brand without playing it. I bought a Maton from ebay once and it was really disappointing for me, had it only a few short months and sold it for a bit of a loss. No matter what the amount you are spending it's your hard-earned dollars and you need to be entirely satisfied.
Good luck with the search. Buying a new guitar is SO enjoyable I can understand why some players build huge collections.
I have a very short bit of advice for you. There are some great sounding guitars out there for $500.00 and under. The most IMPORTANT thing is how the guitar sounds to you and how it feels when playing it. You can always get it set up by a good luithier to your likeing. If the guitar that you like is in your price range and it has the sound quaility and playablity you want, then it will be a good investment.
The sound is the most important thing, then playability. Expensive guitars are nice, beautiful, but maybe not for you.
PG;)
The sound is the most important thing, then playability. Expensive guitars are nice, beautiful, but maybe not for you.
PG;)
Paulguitar56 wrote:
But if you can't play it, what good is the sound? On the other hand, if it plays great in your hands, but the sound isn't quite right, that's no good either. I think one needs to find a guitar that *feels* right AND *sounds* right. IMHO.
Interesting....The sound is the most important thing, then playability....
But if you can't play it, what good is the sound? On the other hand, if it plays great in your hands, but the sound isn't quite right, that's no good either. I think one needs to find a guitar that *feels* right AND *sounds* right. IMHO.Reiver- I had a couple of thoughts:
1. Don't spend a lot of time playing guitars above your price range. It will only make the guitars in your price range feel inferior. If you think you can step up to the price by all means try them out.
2. Don't be swayed by the action. It can be adjusted.
3. Do be swayed by the neck. The shape/ profile will be huge in your future satisfaction with your purchase.
4. Below a certain price point, maybe 500-600 pounds (I don't have the sterling symbol on my computer) but I'm not sure over there, construction and materials matter. Over that price point all guitars are well made. Then it's all about the sound and playability.
5. Don't be intimidated by the salesman. Ask to use a private room or a room where they give lessons. Play everything you can. But pay particular attention to the sustain, how notes ring after you strike them. Good guitars ring for a very long time. Also, see if the bass and treble notes both punch out. Balance is very important.
6. Don't be swayed by brand. I went in to buy a Martin and walked out with a Taylor. I'd never heard of Taylor prior to that day. That being said, there is a reason why Martin, Taylor, Larrivee, Lowden and all the rest are so popular; they've earned their reputation by a lot of years of consistently high quality. In this day of the internet if you make junk, the web will crucify you. Just ask Gibson!!
7. Bring a tuner with you and make sure everything you play is in tune. If not, some frequencies can cancel others which can adversely affect the tone. If the strings are oxidized ask if they can put new ones on. No reputable guitar shop wants their customers to demo an instrument with old, dead strings.
8. Do your homework. Read everything you can find about the instruments you are going to audition. You wouldn't buy a car without knowing about it. Don't be sucker! Know more about the guitars than the guy selling them. Ask good questions.
9. Find out who does the factory authorized service. Good guitar manufacturers spend aome effort on selecting and training those shops that will service their gear. Unless, the shop where you buy the guitar does the service the minute you walk out of the shop, you are just a past customer! Find out if they actually do the service or if they send everything out. Who do they send it out to?
That should be enough to keep you out of trouble for awhile! Good luck and Cheers!! :cheer:
p.s. I completely disagree with the gentleman that suggested that a $3,000 Martin isn't worth what his 1985 Ovation is. There is a reason that Martin can charge $3,000 for a guitar. Superior materials, construction, ornamentation etc. Just because he happens to like his Ovation doesn't make the Martin worth more or less. They are unrelated.
1. Don't spend a lot of time playing guitars above your price range. It will only make the guitars in your price range feel inferior. If you think you can step up to the price by all means try them out.
2. Don't be swayed by the action. It can be adjusted.
3. Do be swayed by the neck. The shape/ profile will be huge in your future satisfaction with your purchase.
4. Below a certain price point, maybe 500-600 pounds (I don't have the sterling symbol on my computer) but I'm not sure over there, construction and materials matter. Over that price point all guitars are well made. Then it's all about the sound and playability.
5. Don't be intimidated by the salesman. Ask to use a private room or a room where they give lessons. Play everything you can. But pay particular attention to the sustain, how notes ring after you strike them. Good guitars ring for a very long time. Also, see if the bass and treble notes both punch out. Balance is very important.
6. Don't be swayed by brand. I went in to buy a Martin and walked out with a Taylor. I'd never heard of Taylor prior to that day. That being said, there is a reason why Martin, Taylor, Larrivee, Lowden and all the rest are so popular; they've earned their reputation by a lot of years of consistently high quality. In this day of the internet if you make junk, the web will crucify you. Just ask Gibson!!
7. Bring a tuner with you and make sure everything you play is in tune. If not, some frequencies can cancel others which can adversely affect the tone. If the strings are oxidized ask if they can put new ones on. No reputable guitar shop wants their customers to demo an instrument with old, dead strings.
8. Do your homework. Read everything you can find about the instruments you are going to audition. You wouldn't buy a car without knowing about it. Don't be sucker! Know more about the guitars than the guy selling them. Ask good questions.
9. Find out who does the factory authorized service. Good guitar manufacturers spend aome effort on selecting and training those shops that will service their gear. Unless, the shop where you buy the guitar does the service the minute you walk out of the shop, you are just a past customer! Find out if they actually do the service or if they send everything out. Who do they send it out to?
That should be enough to keep you out of trouble for awhile! Good luck and Cheers!! :cheer:
p.s. I completely disagree with the gentleman that suggested that a $3,000 Martin isn't worth what his 1985 Ovation is. There is a reason that Martin can charge $3,000 for a guitar. Superior materials, construction, ornamentation etc. Just because he happens to like his Ovation doesn't make the Martin worth more or less. They are unrelated.
I think, correct me if I'm wrong, what was meant by playing well is that the action on the guitar can be adjusted by lowering the saddle or filing down the nut and adjusting the tension bar on the gutar neck, all things that I have done even if I buy a new guitar because it seldom if ever comes adjusted to my personal preference. Where as the sound is based on the woods the guitar is made of and the bracing and general quality of construction. There is not much you can do about that. That's why if you find a guitar that sounds good but the action is a little high for you, that can be easily fixed. Gary
Thanks to all who have taken the time to respond, your input is much appreciated. It's so much more difficult than buying my first Eko from my mum's Kay's catalogue in 1978 for £60. Liked the descriptions of the actual mechanics of what I should be playing to really get an idea of the true sound of the guitar.
Intend to spend the next 3-4 months listening to as many guitars as I can within my price range, hopefully one will jump up shouting "me, me, me.....".
Thanks again
Intend to spend the next 3-4 months listening to as many guitars as I can within my price range, hopefully one will jump up shouting "me, me, me.....".
Thanks again
Excellent approach, if you are willing to take the time and patience to get a good feel and sound of a large variety of guitars your chance of finding that special one are greatly increased. I'm sure when you do buy you will be satisfied with your purchase. Gary
BigBear wrote:
My points in red plus:
Know your absolute max you wish to spend and only play from that level down. Listening to guitars on you tube is all very well, but remember good guitars sound changes mostly for the better as the wood ages, and the more its played. Also you have no idea what the guitar is being played through on you tube sometimes. Same guitars within model range can actually sound different, so just cos one sucks doesn't mean they all do. Look for what looks good, sounds good to you feels good to you. All the advice about what to play so far has been good except for playing Stairway lol Unless you are exceptionally good and can play the solo's as well!! YOu do need to play the entire neck so use the barre chords all over the neck pick out individual notes check for buzz or dead notes
Phew glad you didn't put a lot of thought into it!!!Reiver- I had a couple of thoughts:
1. Don't spend a lot of time playing guitars above your price range. It will only make the guitars in your price range feel inferior. If you think you can step up to the price by all means try them out. Don't play any above your range
2. Don't be swayed by the action. It can be adjusted. Good point
3. Do be swayed by the neck. The shape/ profile will be huge in your future satisfaction with your purchase. Good point
4. Below a certain price point, maybe 500-600 pounds (I don't have the sterling symbol on my computer) but I'm not sure over there, construction and materials matter. Over that price point all guitars are well made. Then it's all about the sound and playability. Good point
5. Don't be intimidated by the salesman. Ask to use a private room or a room where they give lessons. Play everything you can. But pay particular attention to the sustain, how notes ring after you strike them. Good guitars ring for a very long time. Also, see if the bass and treble notes both punch out. Balance is very important. Good point
6. Don't be swayed by brand. I went in to buy a Martin and walked out with a Taylor. I'd never heard of Taylor prior to that day. That being said, there is a reason why Martin, Taylor, Larrivee, Lowden and all the rest are so popular; they've earned their reputation by a lot of years of consistently high quality. In this day of the internet if you make junk, the web will crucify you. Just ask Gibson!! [color=]Look at Cole Clarks great guitars[/color]
7. Bring a tuner with you and make sure everything you play is in tune. If not, some frequencies can cancel others which can adversely affect the tone. If the strings are oxidized ask if they can put new ones on. No reputable guitar shop wants their customers to demo an instrument with old, dead strings. Good point
8. Do your homework. Read everything you can find about the instruments you are going to audition. You wouldn't buy a car without knowing about it. Don't be sucker! Know more about the guitars than the guy selling them. Ask good questions. Good point
9. Find out who does the factory authorized service. Good guitar manufacturers spend aome effort on selecting and training those shops that will service their gear. Unless, the shop where you buy the guitar does the service the minute you walk out of the shop, you are just a past customer! Find out if they actually do the service or if they send everything out. Who do they send it out to? Good point
My points in red plus:
Know your absolute max you wish to spend and only play from that level down. Listening to guitars on you tube is all very well, but remember good guitars sound changes mostly for the better as the wood ages, and the more its played. Also you have no idea what the guitar is being played through on you tube sometimes. Same guitars within model range can actually sound different, so just cos one sucks doesn't mean they all do. Look for what looks good, sounds good to you feels good to you. All the advice about what to play so far has been good except for playing Stairway lol Unless you are exceptionally good and can play the solo's as well!! YOu do need to play the entire neck so use the barre chords all over the neck pick out individual notes check for buzz or dead notes