I have read that also about only gluing the back otherwise changes down the track can be very difficult, involving sawing the Nut out, that is getting too specialisd for meChasplaya wrote:humm...your making me think I should put the glue I bought on my guitar nut. I didn't have anything to compare it to so didn't know I was missing anything. The references I saw on nut installation recommend high viscosity super glue which is what I bought. And they say to only put in on the back of the nut. If it gets down to the bottom you could have more trouble than you one if you want to replace or adjust it.HI Michele,
Best way to raise a saddle slightly
quincy451 wrote:
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My guitar is at a luthier's at the moment for a few reasons, one being action too high at in the higher frets.
I'm told the cause of the problem is that the wood used in the manufacture of many modern guitars should ideally have a longer drying period, which would "set" it more permanently.
A guitar body's face subjected to the tension of the strings can be pulled outwards, becoming slightly rounded if the wood is not previously sufficiently "set" by drying.
So, even with a good straight guitar neck and a saddle at a decent height, the action becomes too high even before the 12th fret.
Solution? Sanding down the bridge.
I'm getting the cheap tuning keys that started crumbling replaced.
No guitar in the house for two weeks.
Am becoming clinically depressed :woohoo:
Sharing this info may be a positive use of my trauma
I'm told the cause of the problem is that the wood used in the manufacture of many modern guitars should ideally have a longer drying period, which would "set" it more permanently.
A guitar body's face subjected to the tension of the strings can be pulled outwards, becoming slightly rounded if the wood is not previously sufficiently "set" by drying.
So, even with a good straight guitar neck and a saddle at a decent height, the action becomes too high even before the 12th fret.
Solution? Sanding down the bridge.
I'm getting the cheap tuning keys that started crumbling replaced.
No guitar in the house for two weeks.
Am becoming clinically depressed :woohoo:
Sharing this info may be a positive use of my trauma
I feel your pain. I have a very similar problem with my Yamaha - solution - a very low saddle - I've raised it recently by replacing it to stop some buzzing I was getting (the topic of this thread), but the action at the 9-12 frets is probably higher that optimal and I may lower it again. I'm just waiting to see if I can get used to the new height.
I also feel your pain because, I am having problems with nerve and muscle pain in my arms again and am not allowed to play for a few days. I've also switched to using my mouse with my left hand too.
I'm desperate to pick up the guitar. Silly ... I don't know how I got here so quickly...
I hope yours is fixed soon.
I also feel your pain because, I am having problems with nerve and muscle pain in my arms again and am not allowed to play for a few days. I've also switched to using my mouse with my left hand too.
I'm desperate to pick up the guitar. Silly ... I don't know how I got here so quickly...
I hope yours is fixed soon.
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Thanks for the sympathy ... here's some back at ya
As an aside, I've been switching mouse hands every month or so for years now, having realized that my left hand can finger guitar chords and is not that dumb after all. I also find that using a fatter mouse helps to relax the hand too.
As an aside, I've been switching mouse hands every month or so for years now, having realized that my left hand can finger guitar chords and is not that dumb after all. I also find that using a fatter mouse helps to relax the hand too.
cosmicmechanic wrote:
[ol][li]Microsoft mouse of the 7000 or similar series. It is a fat mouse, and it is angled so that the palm of your hand is at a more natural angle. I personally use this.[/li]
[li]3M Rennaisance Joystick mouse. With this device, the palm of your hand is perpendicular to the desktop. Two guys in the next office use these and swear by them. But it is relatively expensive for a mouse.[/li][/ol]
Of course, neither of these devices is ambidextrous. PM me if you want more information.
BTW Lavallee's suggestion is still very valid. Even slight ergonomic adjustments to the workspace can make a lot of difference. You might find it worth your while to get an ergonomic expert to look at your working environment and posture and suggest improvements.
And now, back into the saddle...
Did that get the thread back on topic?
David
Two possible suggestions:Thanks for the sympathy ... here's some back at ya
As an aside, I've been switching mouse hands every month or so for years now, having realized that my left hand can finger guitar chords and is not that dumb after all. I also find that using a fatter mouse helps to relax the hand too.
[ol][li]Microsoft mouse of the 7000 or similar series. It is a fat mouse, and it is angled so that the palm of your hand is at a more natural angle. I personally use this.[/li]
[li]3M Rennaisance Joystick mouse. With this device, the palm of your hand is perpendicular to the desktop. Two guys in the next office use these and swear by them. But it is relatively expensive for a mouse.[/li][/ol]
Of course, neither of these devices is ambidextrous. PM me if you want more information.
BTW Lavallee's suggestion is still very valid. Even slight ergonomic adjustments to the workspace can make a lot of difference. You might find it worth your while to get an ergonomic expert to look at your working environment and posture and suggest improvements.
And now, back into the saddle...
Did that get the thread back on topic?
David