Thu Apr 22, 2010 1:46 pm
I think you'll find a bit of every kind of axe around here at TG.
Some of us own upper level Guitars, Taylor 814CEs, Gibson Hummingbirds, Martin D28s, and so on. Personally, I own a Gibson Starburst Standard.
And a Seagull S6+CW Folk, which is my 'go-to'. The Seagull sits beside my desk and it's what I carry with me on trips. The Gibson sits in it's case, humidifier and all.
I also own, and have given away, countless guitars. Mostly to Family members who otherwise would probably never buy one. A few are an Epiphone SG, an Epiphone Hummingbird, a Greg Bennet (Samick) cutaway dreadnaught.
I guess what I'm trying to say, most of us begin with just such a guitar as you now own, then 'move up' if and when we decide to take it to another level, IOW - Commitment before Investment. Middle Level has it's place, like the Seagull S6 line or even the lower level Taylor 100 or 200 series.
So, here's a suggestion, when you get home take a capo (if you have one) and place it across the first fret. Hold down at the fifteenth fret and look down the neck. It should be either straight or slightly curved, like a bow. Now if you have one of those old adjustable automotive feeler gauges us old guys used to set spark plugs (still available at your local Auto Parts Store) and set it at 0.010. The gauge should slide under the string (E - Low E - Big E) easily at (on top of) the seventh fret. Not real easily, but it should fit. Probably will. That's about as low as you will ever want a string to the board by using this method.
If you find it's higher than that (Most likely) then you know your setup is too high, IOW - the strings are further away than they need be making it difficult to push them down. Be aware though, the lower the string the less volume and sustain you will get.
You may also check the nut depth, how close the strings are at (on top of) the first fret. Taking those same feeler gauges set them at 0.024 and without touching anything, see how easily they slide under the E (Big E). Then, set them at 0.018 and do the same at e (little e). These are also the lowest you will probably ever want these settings.
I'm not suggesting you try and correct these settings, just use these as a guideline to see how close you are now. Most Guitar Stores offer setups for anywhere from around $45us to $80us when you buy a new set of strings. If you decide to do this you can at that time decide on what gauge and type/manufacturer you will use in the way of strings and have the setup done for that particular gauge at that time, unless you have a particularly large gauge now (doubtful) try something along the lines of an "Extra Light" gauge. Gauges of say, 0.010 up to .047. This will also take away some tone/volume/sustain when compared to larger gauges but the sacrifice is worth it. Simply put, the smaller the 'wire' the less the tension.
Another word of caution about string gauges. If you are now using, and your guitar was factory setup for larger gauges (again, doubtful enough to really matter) then going 'down' in size (From say - 0.012 > .054 to 0.010>.047) can, and will, leave slack at the nut, meaning the string, as it vibrates, catches a bit of movement (Undesirable movement) as it 'sits' in the saddle. Theres always been controversy on exactly how much 'slack' is within guidlines before adverse effects take place. Some say there should be some (the slot should be say, 0.014 for a 0.012 string with the string 'buried' in the nut itself), some argue the string should just sit slightly deep enough so the tension holds it in place.
Setups are done in 'stages' - IOW, one step follows the next in a particular order. Really, the best and easiest thing to do is take the guitar to a reputable shop, Guitar Center actually has Employee programs which teach their employees these things and usually a tech 'in store' and have them look at the setup. The have the tools and most have the knowledge to do so. You can easily tell someone has this knowledge when they first look at your piece. If they immediately want to just lower the saddle without even looking at the existing measurments, take your guitar and RUN>>>>>
My first? A 1968 Fender three quarter size dreadnaught, with a "Uni_Bar" neck.