How do you know when is time to replace the strings ?
I owe a Mitchell Acoustic electric with steel strings, and been playing it almost daily for about 9 months.
Sorry to ask this but im rather new in this and would like to know how often or what other indicator should I pay attention to know is I need to replace strings.
Thanks
Juan
String Replacement- Acoustic Electric
Juan,
A few things will determine how often you need to change strings: 1) How much you play every day; 2) Whether or not your strings are coated or uncoated; and 3) How clean your hands are when you play.
I play about an hour every day, with coated strings, and I wash my hands before each session. With all that, I can tell my strings are starting to go dead after about 45 to 60 days.
If you use uncoated strings, I'd change them about every 2 weeks, depending on how much you play.
Coated strings (for example, Elixir Nanowebs) will last much longer than uncoated strings. And strings used by a guitarist with clean hands will last much longer.
But I don't care if your strings are solid gold and you have the hygiene habits of Howard Hughes, after 9 months your strings are way beyond dead. Put new ones on and your guitar will sound brand new.
A few things will determine how often you need to change strings: 1) How much you play every day; 2) Whether or not your strings are coated or uncoated; and 3) How clean your hands are when you play.
I play about an hour every day, with coated strings, and I wash my hands before each session. With all that, I can tell my strings are starting to go dead after about 45 to 60 days.
If you use uncoated strings, I'd change them about every 2 weeks, depending on how much you play.
Coated strings (for example, Elixir Nanowebs) will last much longer than uncoated strings. And strings used by a guitarist with clean hands will last much longer.
But I don't care if your strings are solid gold and you have the hygiene habits of Howard Hughes, after 9 months your strings are way beyond dead. Put new ones on and your guitar will sound brand new.
Dennis,
thanks for this as I said before I started playing for less than a year and this is new for me.
I think that based on your comments, my strings as way beyond that point. I've been playing them for about an hour on a daily basis for 9 months. I`ll replace them tomorrow.
I got Elixir 80/20 Acoustic Guitar Strings. (light .012 -.053) I think they are coated.
Do you know them ? do you like them ? which ones would you recommend ?
thanks
thanks for this as I said before I started playing for less than a year and this is new for me.
I think that based on your comments, my strings as way beyond that point. I've been playing them for about an hour on a daily basis for 9 months. I`ll replace them tomorrow.
I got Elixir 80/20 Acoustic Guitar Strings. (light .012 -.053) I think they are coated.
Do you know them ? do you like them ? which ones would you recommend ?
thanks
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AcousticAl
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Crap I've got to change my strings!!
Juan, it will become easier once you give in to the 'dark side' (and you will) and buy another guitar or two or three, etc. 
I have several and once the strings start to sound 'dull' as compared to one of the others, I replace them. In the last year, I have become a fan of the coated strings. I do change my strings a little more often than most, but I just like the sound and feel of new strings.
Bill
I have several and once the strings start to sound 'dull' as compared to one of the others, I replace them. In the last year, I have become a fan of the coated strings. I do change my strings a little more often than most, but I just like the sound and feel of new strings. Bill
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neverfoundthetime
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- Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:14 pm
- Status: Offline
I'm using non coated strings and clean hands and I change evry 3 months playing an hur or more a day. Works out ok.
Chris
Chris
Juan,
I don't think I, personally, have welcomed you to TG, so, Welcome from Texas.
I use D'Addario EJ16s (0.012 to 0.053)non-coated on my Gibson, mainly my 'strumming' Guitar. And D'Addario EJ40 (0.011 to 0.047)- Silk and Steel on my Seagull which I use to mainly fingerpick.
Strings, of different materials and gauges, can and will change the tone of the instrument. As an example, the Silk and Steel give the Seagull a more 'mellow' sound than the same strings I put on the Gibson. The non-coated give a 'brighter' sound. In fact, I bought a 3-pack of the strings for the Gibson, I have 1 left and when it's used, I'll try a different string as the Gibson has a distinct tone since it's made from Curly Maple. The EJ16's have a 'bright' sound to them and the Gibson needs a string that brings out more of the 'mellow' or 'lower' end.
As for the strings you have, they are probably PN (Part Number) 11052. If so, they are Elixr 'nanoweb' coated 80/20 bronze, used by a lot of folks not only here, but everywhere. The 80/20 is a percentage rating of Bronze/steel mixture. The coating vs. non-coated has to do with tone and, largely, the life expectancy of the string. There are many styles and types of strings, finding those 'right' ones becomes a sort of quest after awhile.
The ones you have, as I stated, are fine and one of the top sellers.
However, a suggestion. If you have never done a string change, I would recommend you take the guitar to a reputable store and have a 'set-up' done. This will partake a bit more money, usually around here they are getting $45us and up (two of the stores I live close to have 'guitar techs'). A 'set-up' consist of many different things. First off, if the tech knows what they are doing, they will do a thorough inspection of the guitar, looking for any defects. Then, they will check the 'neck-relief'. This is the first step of the set-up. If these are not the first two steps your technician does ( if, as an example, he goes immediately to pulling the strings) then they probably don't have a clue to what they are doing.
"Neck - Relief" has to do with how 'flat' the fretboard is. Most guitars need a bit of 'relief' or 'upper bow' to them, not exactly flat. This can be adjusted by 'tweaking' or turning the truss rod.
The next step is to check the 'clearance' between the strings and the frets. Once the neck is properly set, there are certain distances allowed between the string and the fret, a lower setting makes the guitar a lot easier to finger, too low will create what is called 'fret-buzz', too high and the pressure needed to hold down a string is a lot more difficult than need be. This adjustment can be done by lowering the 'saddle' - that (usually white) piece of material place in the bridge. It can also be done by filing the Nut (the piece of material on the very top of the fretboard), although this should be done only on certain guitars and in certain situations.
The fretboard itself should be 'cleaned', usually using a XX light piece of steel wool, and then 'treated' with something like 'lemon-oil'. This treatment is also something one can do with the strings on. Be sure though, if you do this, the correct type of oil is used, some oils can actually harm the wood on the fretboard.
I know a 'set-up', especially if your guitar has never had one, will greatly increase your playing pleasure. Most guitars come from the factory with 'high-ended' set ups.
One last thing, check to make sure you are using the same gauge of string the guitar originally came with. There are a lot of engineering factors that go into this and changing that gauge may indeed require a set-up or even for certain things to not 'fit' together correctly.
Best of luck, and again, welcome to TG.
I don't think I, personally, have welcomed you to TG, so, Welcome from Texas.
I use D'Addario EJ16s (0.012 to 0.053)non-coated on my Gibson, mainly my 'strumming' Guitar. And D'Addario EJ40 (0.011 to 0.047)- Silk and Steel on my Seagull which I use to mainly fingerpick.
Strings, of different materials and gauges, can and will change the tone of the instrument. As an example, the Silk and Steel give the Seagull a more 'mellow' sound than the same strings I put on the Gibson. The non-coated give a 'brighter' sound. In fact, I bought a 3-pack of the strings for the Gibson, I have 1 left and when it's used, I'll try a different string as the Gibson has a distinct tone since it's made from Curly Maple. The EJ16's have a 'bright' sound to them and the Gibson needs a string that brings out more of the 'mellow' or 'lower' end.
As for the strings you have, they are probably PN (Part Number) 11052. If so, they are Elixr 'nanoweb' coated 80/20 bronze, used by a lot of folks not only here, but everywhere. The 80/20 is a percentage rating of Bronze/steel mixture. The coating vs. non-coated has to do with tone and, largely, the life expectancy of the string. There are many styles and types of strings, finding those 'right' ones becomes a sort of quest after awhile.
The ones you have, as I stated, are fine and one of the top sellers.
However, a suggestion. If you have never done a string change, I would recommend you take the guitar to a reputable store and have a 'set-up' done. This will partake a bit more money, usually around here they are getting $45us and up (two of the stores I live close to have 'guitar techs'). A 'set-up' consist of many different things. First off, if the tech knows what they are doing, they will do a thorough inspection of the guitar, looking for any defects. Then, they will check the 'neck-relief'. This is the first step of the set-up. If these are not the first two steps your technician does ( if, as an example, he goes immediately to pulling the strings) then they probably don't have a clue to what they are doing.
"Neck - Relief" has to do with how 'flat' the fretboard is. Most guitars need a bit of 'relief' or 'upper bow' to them, not exactly flat. This can be adjusted by 'tweaking' or turning the truss rod.
The next step is to check the 'clearance' between the strings and the frets. Once the neck is properly set, there are certain distances allowed between the string and the fret, a lower setting makes the guitar a lot easier to finger, too low will create what is called 'fret-buzz', too high and the pressure needed to hold down a string is a lot more difficult than need be. This adjustment can be done by lowering the 'saddle' - that (usually white) piece of material place in the bridge. It can also be done by filing the Nut (the piece of material on the very top of the fretboard), although this should be done only on certain guitars and in certain situations.
The fretboard itself should be 'cleaned', usually using a XX light piece of steel wool, and then 'treated' with something like 'lemon-oil'. This treatment is also something one can do with the strings on. Be sure though, if you do this, the correct type of oil is used, some oils can actually harm the wood on the fretboard.
I know a 'set-up', especially if your guitar has never had one, will greatly increase your playing pleasure. Most guitars come from the factory with 'high-ended' set ups.
One last thing, check to make sure you are using the same gauge of string the guitar originally came with. There are a lot of engineering factors that go into this and changing that gauge may indeed require a set-up or even for certain things to not 'fit' together correctly.
Best of luck, and again, welcome to TG.
As you can see from the photo (from Elixer's web site) below, there are two different 80/20 strings made by Elixer: nanoweb and polyweb, so I'm not sure which set you're using. Notice that the two sets of strings have entirely different sound profiles. Which one is right for you depends on your specific guitar.
My guitar (a Taylor) tends to be bright, which I really like, so I use the Phosphor Bronze nanowebs to keep it from getting too bright. But everyone's guitar is different.
Strings are pretty cheap, so you might want to experiment until you find just the sound you're looking for. Uncoated strings are generally cheaper than coated ones, but they don't last nearly as long because they're more susceptible to the grime and oils we have on our fingers.
My guitar (a Taylor) tends to be bright, which I really like, so I use the Phosphor Bronze nanowebs to keep it from getting too bright. But everyone's guitar is different.
Strings are pretty cheap, so you might want to experiment until you find just the sound you're looking for. Uncoated strings are generally cheaper than coated ones, but they don't last nearly as long because they're more susceptible to the grime and oils we have on our fingers.