Hey guys so I am still really new to guitar. I am loving the acoustic I bought and just have a quick question: Capos... does it matter which one I get? What is the difference between a $10 one or a $20 one? And I really don't think it matters but just to be sure, do they make separate capos for electric and acoustic guitars? I received help fast last time I used this forum so I came here first hoping for the same thing.
Thanks guys,
DJ MacLeod
Capos?
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any quick release capo will do unless you need an alternate tuning capo
- Music Junkie
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They will all work, some will just be easier to use than others and hold up a bit better.
Personally, I really like the Shubb capos: http://www.shubb.com/capomodels.html
I have also heard good things about the Planet Waves capos: http://www.planetwaves.com/pwCapos.Page
The shubb is very easy to use with a single hand and it is easy to move around.
J
Personally, I really like the Shubb capos: http://www.shubb.com/capomodels.html
I have also heard good things about the Planet Waves capos: http://www.planetwaves.com/pwCapos.Page
The shubb is very easy to use with a single hand and it is easy to move around.
J
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I use either a Jim Dunlop or a Shubbs. Both work good, but the Shubbs is more compact and fits in the guitar case compartment better.
Hydroman52
Hydroman52
I'm a big fan of Shubb too because they seem to apply equal pressure across the whole fretboard. And they are adjustable for pressure which most capos are not. Their 12 string version is particularly effective. I also use a Kayser and it works fine and is faster but is much larger and harder to play around. :cheer:
DJ,
To answer your second question, you can use the same capo for acoustic and electric guitars (if they have the same number of strings), but not classical guitars.
Electric guitars and most acoustic guitars have fret boards with a curve in the same axis as the frets--that is the actual frets are slightly curved. This is usually referred to as a radiused fretboard and the radius of curvature is sometimes specified. Classical guitars (and flamenco) have flat (and wide) fret boards. So a capo for acoustic and electric guitars will be slightly curved to make better contact with all the strings, and the the classical guitar capo will be flat, with a longer arm.
I personally like G7th capos , especially the new Newport model which is tiny. But for my 12-string guitar, which needs much more pressure, I use a Dunlop trigger capo, and I'm thinking of getting a Shubb for this.
-David
To answer your second question, you can use the same capo for acoustic and electric guitars (if they have the same number of strings), but not classical guitars.
Electric guitars and most acoustic guitars have fret boards with a curve in the same axis as the frets--that is the actual frets are slightly curved. This is usually referred to as a radiused fretboard and the radius of curvature is sometimes specified. Classical guitars (and flamenco) have flat (and wide) fret boards. So a capo for acoustic and electric guitars will be slightly curved to make better contact with all the strings, and the the classical guitar capo will be flat, with a longer arm.
I personally like G7th capos , especially the new Newport model which is tiny. But for my 12-string guitar, which needs much more pressure, I use a Dunlop trigger capo, and I'm thinking of getting a Shubb for this.
-David
I'm a huge fan of the G7th Performance capo because it stays out of the way of my fretting hand when I play, is easy to put on, and is put on with the precise amount of pressure I want without bringing the strings out of tune. When I do a partial capo (strings 1 - 5), I use a Keyser.
For my 2 cents on this topic. I definitely like the Shubb Capo because it is an incredibly well engineered device that will never wear out. I like the way it cams over on itself. I definitely think it is a better investment to buy a good electronic tuner instead of using a special capo that only frets certain strings. Beaker.