Electric strings - what do you use?

[michelew]

Thanks guys. That's really useful information as always. It wouldn't have occurred to me to consider using two different sets, but I can see the benefits.

Tony you brute!

Bear - thanks for the good wishes and playability rather than sound per se makes a lot of sense.

So I find that whenever I get a new instrument there's more to learn about strings and other hardware too, in addition to all the the 'how to play it' stuff. I do like that side of things too. I'm finding the 9s too light at times (i'm bending then unintentionally) and 10s have been recommended to me.

One last question. What's your view on coated? E.g.Elixir. Or is this more for longer sound integrity (doesn't dull so quickly) and therefore perhaps less important here?

And yes I hear you, just play it and don't worry about strings. I hear you and I am.

Thanks.

Shel

[coomba]

Hi shel
I'm back woohoo :woohoo:

For what its worth I prefer light strings on my electric, (Cole Clark Guardian)
Elixer 9's

I like to keep a light touch when playing my electric so string breaking doesn't seem to be an issue for me and I find soloing easier and faster with the lighter strings and they sound fine to me, a good amp is also important for that.
I break more string on my acoustic because I tend to play it heavier and I enjoy the percussive sounds I can get playing it heavy at times.

I don't play my electric as much as my acoustic and I always keep it it a case so the coated Elixer last me quite a long time.

Cheers
Scott

[BigBear]

michelew wrote:

One last question. What's your view on coated? E.g.Elixir. Or is this more for longer sound integrity (doesn't dull so quickly) and therefore perhaps less important here?

l

I LOVE Elixir Nano's on my acoustics but there is no need for polyweb coatings on electric strings. Since most electric strings aren't bronze/brass based they don't oxidize so coated strings are really wasted. A good set of flat wound or coil wound will last you are very long time. It's only when they have been bent so many times they don't stay in tune anymore that they need replacement. Or if they get gummy from finger oils.

:cheer:

[michelew]

Kevin - that's one powerful song and one hell of a compliment. Pat Benatar is one strong, sexy and talented woman. But you're right of course, if you put me in make up, dye my hair, give me a cool rock chick outfit (lots of bangles) give me a attitude adjustment and squint in JUST the right way... I look just like her. B)

Scott - welcome back. Thanks for the advice.

Bear - thanks for the added information. You're a font of experience and knowledge. I'll definitely keep that all in mind. As it happens I have a set of Elixir 10s which I'll be trying first (just like you Den). But, I'll try the Ernie Balls after that. Of course it could be a while. Unless of course....I just end up getting myself a set of coil or flat wound as you've suggested before then...which is possible too.

Thanks guys. This has all Ben useful to me and others too I'm sure.

Shel

[haoli25]

For my Les Paul I have been using 'Gibson Vintage Reissue Nickel' for the last several years. I think I have tried 'em all, but I like these best. To keep ALL strings sounding bright for as long as possible it is very important to keep a cloth in your case and wipe down the strings each time when you finish playing.

Bill

[dennisg]

I LOVE Elixir Nano's on my acoustics but there is no need for polyweb coatings on electric strings. Since most electric strings aren't bronze/brass based they don't oxidize so coated strings are really wasted. A good set of flat wound or coil wound will last you are very long time. It's only when they have been bent so many times they don't stay in tune anymore that they need replacement. Or if they get gummy from finger oils.

Elixer Nano's have a nanoweb coating and not a polyweb coating, nano being much thinner and more comfortable than poly. You may be right that the rust issue is less important with electric strings than with acoustics, but that's not the only reason to use coated strings: with uncoated strings, body oils and other gunk accumulates in the windings of the strings, preventing them from vibrating properly, resulting in loss of tone. A good coating prevents the buildup of gunk. resulting in far greater life for the strings.

[Catman]

Elixir nano 10's on my Gibson Les Paul Studio.

I still have a couple of sets, but when they are worn out I will experiment a bit.

[Hydroman52]

Fender 250R (nickel-plated steel .010 .013 .017 .026 .036 .046) on a Fender Telecaster. This is the second electric guitar that I've owned (first one a Fender Strat when I was still in school 35 - 40 years ago). Just got back into the electric world a couple of months ago, so I'm not too knowledgeable about all things amplified and such. So far, these strings seem to be okay. I have a couple of sets of same make and model of strings in a different gauge so I can compare in the future.

Hope this helps,

Hydroman52

[michelew]

Bill - thanks and good advice. I definitely need to do that more often.

Den - thanks for the clarification. That makes me feel better about using the set I have.

David - thanks.

Hydro - Fender strings for a Fender. Well I'll be. Who'd have thunk. I must explore that at some point.

[heyjoe]

D'Addario exl 120s 9-42s for me on my Strat, been buying these for quite a while. Good strings while last quite a while.

Many years ago I went thru a major SRV phase, so the strat was tuned to Eb and was strung with 13-62. They were a handful, awkward to bend at first, but the sound was immense. I mention this for one main reason, if you are changing string gauges, your guitar will need to be set up accordingly, as the stress on the neck etc will change.

Joe