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Several months ago, Braelyn, our eldest Granddaughter, made her birthday wish. She wanted to see Nashville. We spent last week, Wednesday the 11th, returning Sunday the 15th. Being 53 now, the memory seems to be fading. The flip camera, fully charged, memory empty, remained on the kitchen counter, right there in a place so conspicuous I could not possibly forget to pack it! This is a bit long, imagine that!

The Flood;

The first weekend in May this year, Nashville suffered a “1,000 year” flood. The Cumberland River which runs through Downtown and just beyond the “Music Valley” area where the Gaylord, ‘New’ Grand ‘ol Opry, and the Opryland Mills Mall (where Gibson had a huge display/store) rose out of it’s banks. Most of Nashville was underwater. Seeing the flood on TV is one thing, seeing Nashville in person, and realizing how much embankment is on each side of the Cumberland brings a new level of how devastating this flood really was.

Most of Downtown, where the Ryman Auditorium and the surrounding Honky Tonks and restaurants Nashville is known for suffered from the rising water, some of it is still closed, the Symphony Hall is due to open sometime in 2011, having suffered in the millions of dollars of damage. The Gaylord is due to reopen, along with the Mall, in mid-November, having suffered as much as 10 feet of water. There are water lines everywhere, yet this town is something else. Makes the State name “The Volunteer State” really mean something. A lot of it is open and running just as it always has. Downtown, Broadway and 2nd Street (where most of the Honky Tonks and Restaurants are) is in full bloom. Saturday Night was crazy, (crazy good) yet having two 11 year olds girls with us, we were out of there by 7pm.

The Food;

The wife used up some of those “point” deals from AMEX and we had several discounts. We did use a couple, then gave a couple as tips. We stayed at the Radisson close to the Gaylord. Across the street, in part of what is known as “Music Valley” are several Bars and restaurants. Our first night there, we chose one of those discount places. Seems Tennessee has a new law, any place may allow smoking, just if they do, no one under 21 is allowed inside. A lot of places have an ‘adaptation’ of this law, no one under 21 after 6pm and of course, no smoking until after 6pm. So the first choice was out, we wandered around and on the corner was one of those ‘Family Friendly' down home places. You know, fried Catfish and Chicken. Fried Dill pickles and Okra type of stuff.

There is also a three piece “Bluegrass” band, Guitar, stand-up Bass Fiddle, Banjo thing wandering around the place. The last night there, Braelyn, our eldest granddaughter, actually sang a couple of songs with them. Nice to see an actual 1947 Martin D-18 in action also. Everywhere we ate, including a Mexican food hole-in-the-wall complete with pink exterior, the food was great. The breakfast buffet at the Hotel wasn’t bad either.

The Grand ‘Ol Opry;

While the ‘new’ Opry is still closed, undergoing repairs, the Ryman is open. Honestly, it’s one of those things I wanted to see and do anyway. If you go to the Ryman, bring a seat cushion, the beer is cheap enough ($3 a bottle) but the seating is the old ‘church pews’ style. Part of the feeling really. It’s a two hour show, in thirty minute intervals, each thirty minutes hosted by one of the acts. Most of the acts are one or two songs, yet a splattering of new and old is exciting to see.

Ricky Skaggs is gray headed (and a full, long head of hair it is) and hosted the third part. Vince Gill did two songs, Marty Stuart, and Bill Anderson (who readily shook anyone’s hand who approached the stage, as did Vince. Braelyn has now shaken hands with Bill, Vince, and Carrie Underwood). Chuck Wicks was one of the new guys, nice set by himself and his band. All in all, we had a great time there.

The Ryman also offers daily tours, has displays and even a recording studio. While we didn’t do any of those, the Ryman is something anyone who has a liking for Country Music, or just plain old history of American music, needs to see.

Country Music Hall of Fame;

I know some of you instantly think “I hates Country Music!!” but wait, this place is a lot more than that. All of us here are fans of the guitar, especially acoustic guitars. How about Bill Monroe’s Mandolin, or Hank Sr.’s Martin D-28? How about Maybelle Carter’s guitar? Believe me, there are more infamous Guitars and instruments here than any Guitar Center could hold. Everything and Everyone from Doc Watson to Garth Brooks (Nashville saying = “Who’s that?”). Even Taylor Swift has her custom Taylor koa 12 string on display. They had a display going on about the William’s family. From Senior to Junior to Jet and beyond. Elvis’s “Gold Cadillac” sits on the third floor.

Then on Saturday, they hold a ‘songwriters’ deal. We had the pleasure to see Robert Ellis Orrall. He’s opened for the likes of U2, the Kinks, and others. He has also penned and co-penned songs like “Close to me- close to you” (Shenandoah’s #1) and “I’m only me when I’m with You” (Taylor Swift) and has over 250 ’cuts’. This ’concert’ is held in the Ford Theater inside the Hall of Fame. Seating only about 300, it’s an up close, personal thing. Hearing the stories behind how and why different songs are written by a well known artist/producer/songwriter like Robert, then meeting and talking with him after the show, was one of the highlights of the entire trip. And yes, Braelyn sang for him.

Then in a corner of the Hall, they held a ‘petting zoo’ for kids (I guess I could have petted also, but felt a bit out of place). They brought in an artist who sat in front of an entire group of kids, and played the Guitar, Fiddle, Autoharp, Dulcimer, and Mandolin. Then, as Volunteers helped, the kids were turned loose. The place was full of instruments. No, no Gibson Hummingbirds were sitting around, but there were plenty of things to play. Braelyn started out her instrument playing on violin (AKA 'Fiddle" in CW terminology), she ended up showing a couple of kids how to ‘stroke’ the thing properly. Autumn, Braelyn’s best friend who came along with us, actually chose this as her ‘Favorite’ thing we did.

Other Stuff;

“Everybody Plays, Everybody Sings” is a fairly accurate thing. There are, of course, those who do all the other things. But for talent, and wanna-be’s, the streets are full of guys and gals with beat up guitar cases holding their prized Martin’s. The music starts usually around 11 am. Some of the places even go round-the-clock with bands changing out every so often. Some of them are open to ‘all’ until 6pm, the three we visited had some really great talent up on stage. Everyone was open and welcoming, Braelyn even sang with one guy on stage in one of the clubs, and got the chance to sing for Eddie King and his band.

We did the Lunch cruise on the General Jackson, great food. Tim Watson, one of Nashville’s premier fiddle players, does a show after lunch (or dinner if you do the dinner cruise). Of course, it’s old timer stuff, a whole bunch of that ‘real’ country music complete with Amazing Grace and the fiddlers best known, "Orange Blossom Special" and Charlie Daniel’s “Devil Came Down to Georgia”.

After the show the band holds a ‘personal - meet the fans’ (complete with CDs for sale, everybody has CDs for sale) in the back of the room. We not only met Tim, and his band, of course Braelyn sang. Then we heard some stories from the Bass player. Seems he played for Billy Ray Cyrus a few years back. Seems his Mother was also Miley’s Nanny during that time, and during the few years following.

In closing, out of all the folk we met, I think we found one waitress who had an ‘attitude’. Then again, the wife can be rather trying in a restaurant at times. All of the musicians we met along the way were open, honest, and welcoming. Of all of the ones Braelyn sang for, or asked to sing for, she was never turned down (I can’t imagine how many times this must happen) and none of them once had a glimmer of anything but praise for her. My favorite was in one of those little bars on 2nd. Street. As the wife and I enjoyed an ice cold adult beverage, the artist ran through a few songs then, without ever asking us, Braelyn walked to the stage. All I could think of was “OH crap, this kid’s gonna get chewed on, taking this guy’s stage”. He leaned over, and invited her up, and introduced her to the place. The two of them fumbled through a Miranda Lambert tune (in which she forgot the words halfway through) and then she did an Acappella version of another Miranda song, “White Liar”. When she was done, everyone, including a couple off the street, applauded. Even that wasn’t my favorite, it was when the Artist actually spoke up “WOW, I had to turn you up there, I just knew you weren’t that good”!

Wiley,

That sounds like a fantastic trip. Very unfortunate about the flood, but it sounds like with all the devastation most folks are dealing pretty well. QUite a few well know names you've met and sounds as if Braelyn really enjoys singing with a few.

Thanks for sharing this wonderful trip.

Next time tie the flip camera to your belt :laugh:

Bob

Nice account of your trip Wiley, thanks a lot for sharing. For me, Nashville is one of those iconic places in the World that I feel I must visit at some point in my life. Not so much of a country music fan, but I don't think that matters so much.

Couple of questions, I interpreted your words to mean that Garth Brooks isn't well regarded there? Why is that? Secondly, what is a "Gaylord"? (In the context that you are describing because I have met a few Gaylords in my time and I don't think that's what you are describing. I got the impression it's an establishment?

Bob,

A lot of folks lost everything, over 3,000 homes were destroyed. The likes of Vince Gill, Brad Paisley, LeAnn Rimes, and many others lost indescribable instruments, amps, complete stage gear, lighting and video show equipment. Brad Paisley was scheduled to tour around two weeks after the flood happened, lost all but two guitars and had to take a boat to his home, climb in the second story window to get the two he did recover. Just as a small example of the spirit of Nashville, Brad started his tour on time. That and the fact that Downtown, which relies heavily upon tourism, is almost entirely open again just some three months later.

Tony, there are a lot of stories about Garth. The old timers have a general 'dislike' for him in the way he did some of his stuff in the later part of his career, especially his "Alter-Ego" (supposedly a pre-release soundtrack for a movie he was working on) album, mostly rock-n-roll style named "Chris Gaines Greatest Hits". Garth was Chris, a fictional character created for a starring role in a supposed movie called "The Lamb". The movie was never made and Garth lost a lot of fans (Country Fans) because of it. Couple that with the fact he was always such a 'good old boy' and "The Real Thing" image he had, then did the Chris Gaines deal, and divorced his wife for Trisha Yearwood, who he had been touring with on and off. Kind of left a bad taste in a lot of folks mouths, so to speak.

Now don't get me wrong, he deserves a lot of recognition for bringing Country and Western Music (along with Billy Ray Cyrus) to the multitudes. And most of his music I still enjoy, one of these trips to Vegas I plan on seeing his show. It's just that the "purist" (which Nashville is full of, as towards what they consider "Country Music") don't much care for him. One needs to remember, Garth graduated with a bachelor's degree in Marketing!

As for "Gaylord", it's parent company is "Gaylord Entertainment", headquartered in Nashville. It's named after it's founder, Edward Gaylord. They own four upscale hotel/convention centers, one near where I live (Gaylord Texan) and to say this place is 'upscale' is cutting it a bit short. Not only are the hotels HUGE, but they feature indoor gardens, the 'real kind', no paper or fake stuff to it. During the year, the Texan has a full scale model train that runs around the "Riverwalk" area (modeled after the infamous San Antonio Riverwalk). Gaylord Texan even features it's own winery, complete with it's own vineyard (it is located in Grapevine, Texas).During Christmas, they have an unbelievable Ice show and the interior and exterior are done with remarkable decorations.

They also own the Ryman Theater, the Grand 'Ol Opry, the General Jackson showboat (which we did) and several hotels (like the Radisson we stayed in) near what is known as "Music Valley". Gaylord Entertainment also owns the production rights to the television show "Hee-Haw", and WSM radio (AKA 650-AM WSM) the radio station is heard in 38 states and has been the home station for "The Grand 'Ol Opry" weekly radio show since it began, I believe first broadcast in 1925. And several (many) other operations. Put it this way, in 2007 they had revenues of some $747 million(us).

As for Nashville and "Country Music" it's honestly a lot more than that. The stages are full of acts that pull in everything. During the evening hours it was a sight to watch as several guys, guitar case in hand, tried to get a spot on the Broadway and 2nd street stages. I know I counted four within an hour. Don't get me wrong, you won't hear very much Jazz or Hip-Hop downtown, yet. One thing I didn't mention in my original post, we went to a thing called "The Musician's Corner" in the park on the east side of Nashville. It was a 'sit on the ground' type of thing. They had several acts, including Jazz, Fusion, Rock, and a remarkable young lady with a style a lot like Priscilla Ahn/Colbie Caillat. So there's a bit of everything there, you just need to look. Besides, just that WOW of a Guitar collection at the Hall of Fame had me. That and I simply love nothing more than throwing back a cold one and listening to some great music, be the artist an unknown local act or a big name.

Thanks man, I really got a lot of enjoyment out of reading your thread. Thanks also for answering my questions so thoroughly.

Thanks Wiley, very interesting report. I go through Nashville every now and then for business. I will make a point to visit.

Marc

Good report, I have been there and spent the night but did not get to see any of the sights other than while driving through. We actually went to see a Beatles tribute band that was playing in an old theater there. I went with a friend and my then 4 year old Grandson who even today is still a bit of a Beatles fan at 12.
Nashville is a place worth going back to, as is Memphis. There are alot of great place to visit when you have the time, I know my Nashville trip, as was yours, because it was shared with a Grandchild, there is no better way to spend time!
Pete

Thank you, Wiley!

I was born in and have moved home to live in (near) Nashville. Your trip report is most appreciated!

Yes, the flooding was devastating and keep in mind that several of those artists you saw on stage are living off the tips that dried up when the flood water rose. The Opry Mills mall and Gaylord Opryland employed many, many people who

I have been waited on by some people that I heard later at a writer's night event and wondered why they were not stars yet but like you said, you can't throw a rock in this town without hitting an artist.

As you said, everything you want to hear is on stage, too. I wandered into an Irish Pub and heard a man doing amazing Irish trad things with his beat up 12 string Guild. James Taylor and Carole King passed through not long ago. Kid Rock and Sheryl Crow are at least part time locals. Nashville is the other end of a hip-hop pipeline from Los Angeles. But yes, Lee Greenwood, Marty Stuart, and George Jones shop at the same grocery store I do.

The important message is the one you delivered so well and clearly - Nashville is open for business, a musical destination, and truly a site for a country music pilgrimage!


Steve

Thanks for the report Wiley. One thing puzzles me, though. why do you refer to San Antonio's Riverwalk as infamous? My family has been there numerous times, especially when the kids were growing up, and we always enjoyed it.
Did you have a bad experience there that left you with a distaste for it? Just wondering, as we have many good memories of the Riverwalk.

Jerry

I also enjoyed the Riverwalk, not to speak for Wiley, but I am sure he meant in the sense of very popular. This is how I read it anyway. I will be in Nashville in 2 weeks and I am looking forward to a quick tour