Michelle,
You cut your strings off? Any particular reason? I don't do that because it could fly and hit someone, namely me. I've enough things that add cuts to my fingers and hands already, I don't need any more. Also, I've had cut strings fly and hit my glasses.
Now I just unwind them far enough so that I can grab them and lift them off the peg. No flying pieces to worry about.
Your thoughts on restringing your guitar
- neverfoundthetime
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:14 pm
- Status: Offline
Ken you gotta be real careful with your G-string (ask Al)! The G-octave on the 12 string is a real bummer if you break that while stringing... sometimes you have to buy a whole set to replace it ;-(.
As for 'cutting' that G string, most of the manufacturers today install 'intonation compensated' bridges. Something to remember if you bridge is 'floating' (or not glued in place, most are nowdays) like Bears, if it does fall out you will need to remember which way to put it back in. As a result of this 'compensation' and in an attempt to use as much of the saddle as possible, the 'cut' on the G string (usually the G needs the most compensation along with the B) the edges can get rather 'sharp'. Sanding down the top of the bridge takes some off of this 'compensation' , and as a result, will change the 'intonation' setup.
wrench wrote:
This is my own personal procedure, but since I posted it publicly and mention the use of a vacuum cleaner, I should also have posted this obvious warning: "DO NOT PUT THE HOSE OF A VACUUM CLEANER IN THE SOUND HOLE OF A GUITAR"Everyone has their own way. Here's mine. YMMV.
Tools and Materials:
1 vacuum cleaner
2 peg winder
3 wire cutter
4 10 mm nut driver
5 philips screwdriver #1
6 bridge pin puller
7 truss rod wrench
8 scale
9 neck support
10 sandpaper 220 grit
11 scotchbrite
12 lint free paper shop towels
13 cotton towels (2)
14 microfiber towel
15 new strings
Task List:
1 check neck and straighten if necessary
2 tune to pitch
3 fret at 1 and 14 then check neck relief for .001 to .005 (light strumming, arpeggio, and fingerstyle) or .004 to .008 (heavy strum and low alternate tunings)
4 adjust truss rod if necessary then wait 15 minutes and repeat relief check
5 check action height at 12th fret
6 determine if action height needs to change
7 use 6/64 to 7/64 for general use
8 use 7/64 to 8/64 for heavy strum and low alternate tunings
9 use 4/64 to 5/64 for light strumming, arpeggio, and fingerstyle
10 subtract 1/64 at e for low action and 2/64 for higher action
11 adjust saddle delta x2
12 check action height at the nut
13 use .010 at E and .006 at e fretted on top of 2
14 for lower action, use .002 at E and .001 at e
15 adjust delta x2 at nut
16 remove tension from all 6 strings
17 pull all 6 bridge pins
18 gang the strings and unwind from the headstock
19 sand string grooves from saddle if necessary
20 scotchbrite the fretboard and frets
21 vacuum the fretboard
22 inspect frets visually for severe flats
23 inspect frets for burrs
24 check fret leveling with scale
25 oil fretboard and bridge lightly with lemon oil on lint free paper shop towel
26 wipe fretboard and bridge with clean paper shop towel
27 torque tuner mounting nuts with 10 mm nut driver to 10 in/lbs – DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!
28 tighten peg screws with philips screwdriver until pegs have slight drag
29 wipe body with Dawn/warm water solution on a cotton towel
30 rinse-wipe with clean warm water on a cotton towel
31 dry with microfiber towel
32 repeat this process twice for the neck, leaving the Dawn to work for 15 seconds each
33 install strings with Taylor method (constant coiling - no overlap of string surfaces)
34 tune to concert pitch, check action heights, and enjoy
String tail lengths:
pull each string tight over the saddle and measure the following from the head side of the tuning peg with the hand-tight string in its corresponding nut slot. cut the string at the lengths shown below (for .012-.053)
E 1.75"
A 2"
D 2.5"
G 3"
B 4"
e 5"
AndyT wrote:
I added the comment about cutting strings as an example of how you might be able to shock the neck, because of the dramatic change in tension. That's all.
Michele
Andy, no I don't cut the strings when removing them. I've added an extra sentence to my previous post explaining that.Michelle,
You cut your strings off? Any particular reason? I don't do that because it could fly and hit someone, namely me. I've enough things that add cuts to my fingers and hands already, I don't need any more. Also, I've had cut strings fly and hit my glasses.
Now I just unwind them far enough so that I can grab them and lift them off the peg. No flying pieces to worry about.
I added the comment about cutting strings as an example of how you might be able to shock the neck, because of the dramatic change in tension. That's all.
Michele
- neverfoundthetime
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:14 pm
- Status: Offline
... some of the crap I play on my guitar certainly shocks the neck now and again 'shel !
neverfoundthetime wrote:
Ha! Next your goin' to try and tell us ya can't sing. I'm gullible, but not that gullible.... some of the crap I play on my guitar certainly shocks the neck now and again 'shel !